📍4 Charles Prime Rib, New York City

I've been fortunate to visit 4 Charles on a few occasions, including earlier this year in August. Like last time, I flew a red-eye into New York to make the reservation. It was a 9 p.m. reservation on a Saturday night; it doesn't get more prime time. I walked in with my dining party just a few minutes before that, and our table was already waiting for us.

4 Charles is an intimate space. You walk down the steps into this dark, wood-covered room. You'll find 4 tables on the right, 2 on the left, and one in the back. The table in the back is in the center and it's the largest table. It was also my table that night. It feels special, somewhat like table 27 at Rezdora. While you're in the dining room, it feels just a bit more private than the other tables.

I started my evening by ordering a dry Hendricks Martini with a twist. In August, I stuck with wine, missing out on their exceptional martinis. As expected, it came in a chilled glass and was incredibly cold. The craft was evident. The ratio of gin to vermouth to ice water (from dilution) led to a textbook silky mouthfeel. I would go on to order a Vesper a bit later in the meal, but I didn't grab a picture of that.

We got a couple of Bordeauxs also. They decanted those for a little before pouring, and they were just outstanding like the previous visit. A funny moment came during the first wine pour when our server brought over an extra glass. Realizing the mistake, he started to take it away when one of my friends asked if he would like to join us for a sip. Unexpectedly, he poured himself a little and enjoyed it!

At that moment, it became clear what 4 Charles does so well. The service isn't theatrical or scripted, but it is a production. The interactions, the conversations, and even the ordering are part of the atmosphere. As diners, for the two hours that we're there, we get to be part of this scene in a clubhouse. Instead of the stuffiness of fine dining, we're at a party in a friend's basement. It's simultaneously exclusive yet welcoming as only a close friendship can offer.